TRAPPED snugly between the Cretan Sea and the White Mountains, enchanting Chania is a living museum that lends itself best to aimless “off-season” wandering through its historic, unreconstructed streets.

Chania Old Town is a magnificent bustle of ancient cobbled paths, teetering Venetian ruins in pastel hues and excavated Minoan palaces. Bordering the Venetian-Ottoman district and the moped-choked modern city is the lively covered Agora, where locals vie with tourists over authentic Cretan fare such as whole piglet and squid soup.

Because finer beaches are to be found elsewhere, Chania has traditionally appealed more to day-trippers. But there is much magic to be had at night; especially among the bombed-out ruins of the old town – many of which conceal romantic candlelit al fresco restaurants and bars. Chania with her East meets West palette, also possesses more culinary bravado than many of her Greek island peers.